Elbrus Southern route to west summit 10N 11D

Elbrus

the highest mountain peak in Europe, situated in the Caucasus Mountains of Russia. It is a popular destination for mountaineers and trekkers from around the world. The southern route is the most commonly used path for climbing Elbrus.

The southern route begins at the Azau cable car station, which is located at an altitude of 2,350 meters. From there, climbers take a chairlift to the Mir station at an altitude of 3,800 meters. The Mir station is the starting point for the climb.

The climb from Mir station to the summit of Elbrus involves crossing the Pastukhov Rocks, which is a steep and rocky section of the climb. Climbers need to be cautious while crossing this section as there is a risk of rockfall.

After crossing the Pastukhov Rocks, the route leads to the Saddle, which is a flat area between the two peaks of Elbrus.

From the Saddle, the route splits into two paths. The left path leads to the west summit, which is slightly lower than the east summit. The right path leads to the east summit, which is the highest point on Elbrus. Climbers aiming for the summit take the right path.

The climb from the Saddle to the summit of Elbrus is a long and steep ascent. The route is marked by a series of switchbacks and snowfields. Climbers need to use crampons and ice axes to navigate the snow and ice.

The route is also exposed to strong winds and low temperatures, which can make the climb challenging.

At the summit, climbers are rewarded with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. On a clear day, it is possible to see the Black Sea to the west and the Caspian Sea to the east.

The southern route is a challenging climb that requires a good level of fitness and mountaineering skills. Climbers need to be prepared for the cold and windy conditions and should have appropriate gear and clothing.

It is also important to acclimatize properly before attempting the climb to minimize the risk of altitude sickness.

The southern route can be completed in 6-8 days, depending on the weather and the pace of the climbers. The best time to climb Elbrus is from June to September, when the weather is relatively stable and the snow has melted.

In conclusion, the southern route is the most popular and accessible route for climbing Elbrus. It offers stunning views and a challenging climb that is suitable for experienced mountaineers. Climbers should be well prepared and acclimatized to tackle the climb and make the most of this amazing experience.

The first race on Elbrus took place in 1990, with Soviet and American climbers competing. The race was won by Anatoli Boukreev, with Kevin Cooney in second, followed by Patrick Healy. Route Priut 11 (4,050 m (13,287 ft)) – East (lower) was summited in 1 hour and 47 minutes.

Regular competitions began to take place in 2005, with a choice of two routes: the “classic” climb from “Barrels” at 3,708 m (12,165 ft) to the western summit (5,642 m (18,510 ft)) and a long climb, from the Azau Meadow at 2,350 m (7,710 ft) to the same summit.

In 2006, Denis Urubko won the long ascent in 3 hours, 55 minutes, 59 seconds.

On 24 September 2010, under the Artur Hajzer program “Polish Winter Himalayism 2010–2015”, the Polish Mountaineering Association sent a 13-person team for training purposes. Andrzej Bargiel set a new long course record of 3 hours, 23 minutes, 37 seconds.

The record time for the full race, ascent and descent, of the long route is 4:20:45, set on 7 May 2017 by the Swiss-Ecuadorian mountain guide Karl Egloff. Egloff broke the previous record set in September 2014 by Vitaliy Shkel by more than 18 minutes.

He reached the summit in 3:24:14, missing Bergiel’s record ascent-only time by 37 seconds; the race organisation and the International Skyrunning Federation nevertheless consider Egloff’s ascent a record as well.

The fastest times by a woman on the long route were set by Diana Zelenova (4:30:12 for the ascent in 2017) and Oksana Stefanishina (6:25:23 for the full race in 2015).

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